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One of the striking things about Srbija is how many extraordinarily talented people live in an area less than 1/100th the size of my country. These range from brilliant scholars and artists to master craftsmen like Gojko. Gojko works for our Embassy in maintenance. He speaks little English, and is usually accompanied by Saša, who seems to be a kind of journeyman and translator.

But Gojko does not have to speak -- his work speaks for him. He can repair just about anything, and make, from scratch, the most beautiful wooden furnishings and accessories -- something he does not often get a chance to do, because the time and love he invests in it far exceeds the budget the government allots. Pity, that, because if I have to chose between the man behind these eyes and the anonymous accountants back home....